Cross-posted from my original entry on NeighborhoodNotes.com:
When Nutshell first opened last year as an upscale vegan restaurant, I was thrilled. The menu was a culinary exploration that led the diner to imagine limitless vegan cuisine beyond tofu, seitan and salads. Meat analogues were nowhere to be seen, and the flavor combinations were intriguing - definitely things I wouldn't think to make at home. I couldn't wait to return in order to try another dish.
Then this summer Nutshell decided to mix up its menu to include some vegetarian items that incorporate dairy or eggs. Blame it on the economy and the need to draw a wider clientele or chalk it up to a non-vegan chef's wandering palate - either way, vegans may consider this a step backward for animal rights. Yet on the whole, Nutshell still has enormous potential to introduce omnivores - especially those who would never set foot in one of our beloved earthy-crunchy tofu-wrap joints - to not only a more eco-friendly plant-based diet, but the existence of true vegan cuisine.
So when Nutshell recently hosted a media dinner for members of the press, I decided to take another look with fresh eyes, sampling course after course of the new small plates menu, skipping the two or three vegetarian items in favor of vegan alternatives.
I'm happy to say that the signature quality of Chef Derek Hanson's dishes - the playful counterbalance of flavors - was as rewarding as I remember from previous visits. And now each selection is presented as a small plate: order a few to customize your own combo, or choose several to pass around the table and graze (they come out of the kitchen as they're ready, which - if sharing - actually makes for a more informal and interactive way to dine with friends). When you add Nutshell's extensive wine list, artfully paired by wine director Michael Garofola, the evening is as tasteful and satisfying as any in the Pearl.
While the straightforward apple salad with beets, marionberries, pine nuts, peppermint and muscatel vinaigrette was fresh and tasty, a smoky radicchio was all the more delectable. Red chard and green kale with grits and cherry ginger gastrique - a carryover from the previous menu - is an excellent example of the restaurant's signature contrast of flavors, as if your taste buds are accessing the left and right sides of your brain simultaneously. In fact, the only thing less than impressive was a bland quinoa and polenta dish with romesco sauce - one of several fried dishes that was ultimately flavorless in comparison. A maple chocolate tart with vanilla cashew sauce and hazelnuts provided an ultra-rich, fudgy conclusion best shared with other friends who agree a meal should end on a sweet note. The real standout of the evening was actually one of the vegan dishes that the chef substituted for a vegetarian course: a crispy risotto cake that is combined with blue hubbard squash, raw cranberry relish, melted fennel and onions. Now this was a dish to return for.
Four of 19 dishes on Nutshell's online menu are listed as "dairy integrated", which I would hazard to guess means that it cannot be prepared vegan. Prices range from $2 to $13 each, and owner Adam Berger says to watch for a new "bike menu" that will feature selections designed for quick takeout and packaged for easy transport via two wheels.
Nutshell, which is open only for dinner and is closed Mondays, is located at 3808 N. Williams Ave.; (503) 292-2627; www.nutshellpdx.com.
Showing posts with label restaurants. Show all posts
Showing posts with label restaurants. Show all posts
Vegan at Taco del Mar
Cross-posted from my entry on Neighborhood Notes:
Even though I'm not a huge fan of national fast-food chains, a recent 80-hour workweek led me twice to my local franchise of Taco del Mar on Southeast Martin Luther King Boulevard. Service was friendly and efficient, dinner was only about $5, and best of all: My vegan self could choose from a variety of items that were more than just a salad.
Even the company's Web site has a page (among a slew of nutrition- and diet-related pages) dedicated to clearly explaining which menu items are vegetarian and which are vegan — and even a clear definition of the two definitions. Although I probably will never understand the appeal of a fish taco, at least I know that a vegan is welcome at the Taco del Mar table.
There are some 15 Taco del Mar franchises in neighborhoods all around Portland; the MLK store is located at 438 SE MLK Blvd., (503) 232-7695.
Kettleman Bagels
Cross-posted from my entry over at Neighborhood Notes ...
After a vegan shopping trip out to Bob's Red Mill store in Milwaukie (a great source of very low-cost vegan chocolate chips, vegan evaporated cane juice sugar and, of course, the largest assortment of organic flours around) and Penzey's Spices (a great opportunity to give your nose a taste test of a great variety of familiar and unique spices, including Dundicut Peppers from Pakistan), our shopping companion wanted to stop by Kettleman Bagels in Southeast Portland for lunch.
While Kettleman's sandwich selection did have a vegetarian option, cheese seemed preprogrammed. Fortunately for me, all but one of the bagel selections were vegan (my toasted onion was tasty without being overwhelming) as were the bialys (which could have actually benefited from a little more flavor). The bagels, which are kosher, are New York style (boiled and baked), and the coffee is Stumptown without an extra charge for the soy milk. The service was friendly and the joint offered a generous portion of Tofutti cream cheese, too.
Worth another visit -- and a request for a vegan sandwich on the menu.
Kettlemans Bagels is located at 2235 SE 11th Ave., 503-238-8883; and 2314 NW Lovejoy St.; 503-295-2314.
Vegan at the Vegetarian Houseby Veritable Vegan
Cross-posted from my entry at Neighborhood Notes...
OK, it's a bit ironic that the Vegetarian House -- Portland's vegetarian Chinese restaurant -- is located between butcher shops, but then again .... How cool is it that we have such an establishment has taken root in the heart of Chinatown?
What I love about this place is that the Orange Chik'n makes my mouth water just writing about it and the all-you-can-eat weekday lunch buffet is a steal at only about $6.50 or so.
One note: Some vegans aren't crazy about meat analogs. If you're among that camp, you might best try one of the other excellent vegan establishments in town because the Vegetarian House leans heavily on protein sources of tofu and seitan. For the rest of us .... did I mention the Orange Chik'n? [I'm sad to report, however, that the Orange Chik'n is now around $10 — with only rice, no veggie accompaniment; that's getting pricey if you ask me.]
Vegetarian House is located at 22 NW 4th Ave.; 503-274-0160.
OK, it's a bit ironic that the Vegetarian House -- Portland's vegetarian Chinese restaurant -- is located between butcher shops, but then again .... How cool is it that we have such an establishment has taken root in the heart of Chinatown?
What I love about this place is that the Orange Chik'n makes my mouth water just writing about it and the all-you-can-eat weekday lunch buffet is a steal at only about $6.50 or so.
One note: Some vegans aren't crazy about meat analogs. If you're among that camp, you might best try one of the other excellent vegan establishments in town because the Vegetarian House leans heavily on protein sources of tofu and seitan. For the rest of us .... did I mention the Orange Chik'n? [I'm sad to report, however, that the Orange Chik'n is now around $10 — with only rice, no veggie accompaniment; that's getting pricey if you ask me.]
Vegetarian House is located at 22 NW 4th Ave.; 503-274-0160.
Vegan Noshing at Backspace
Cross-posted from my entry at Neighborhood Notes ...
I had known of Backspace as a cool coffeeshop, but I’d totally spaced on its veggie/vegan menu until a few weeks ago when a friend reintroduced me to this Oldtown/Chinatown nirvana.
In addition to nighttime entertainment (I’ll leave the younger set to tell you about all that), the free Wi-Fi (equally useful for gaming as for working), the artwork and a vibe as expansive as the high ceilings -- there's also a rockin’ vegetarian menu -- most of which can be made vegan. Like the sandwich I had today: “The Smokey.” A great mix of smoked field roast with avocado, veggies and such on a crusty baguette with a small but tasty side salad. A great antidote to the cool grey skies that have overtaken our fall days this week.
Yup, you got it -- I’ll be back to Backspace.
Backspace is located at 115 NW Fifth Ave.; 503-248-2900.
I had known of Backspace as a cool coffeeshop, but I’d totally spaced on its veggie/vegan menu until a few weeks ago when a friend reintroduced me to this Oldtown/Chinatown nirvana.
In addition to nighttime entertainment (I’ll leave the younger set to tell you about all that), the free Wi-Fi (equally useful for gaming as for working), the artwork and a vibe as expansive as the high ceilings -- there's also a rockin’ vegetarian menu -- most of which can be made vegan. Like the sandwich I had today: “The Smokey.” A great mix of smoked field roast with avocado, veggies and such on a crusty baguette with a small but tasty side salad. A great antidote to the cool grey skies that have overtaken our fall days this week.
Yup, you got it -- I’ll be back to Backspace.
Backspace is located at 115 NW Fifth Ave.; 503-248-2900.
Vegan at the Vegetarian House
Cross-posted from my entry at Neighborhood Notes ...
OK, it's a bit ironic that the Vegetarian House -- Portland's vegetarian Chinese restaurant -- is located between butcher shops, but then again .... How cool is it that we have such an establishment has taken root in the heart of Chinatown?
What I love about this place is that the Orange Chik'n makes my mouth water just writing about it and the all-you-can-eat weekday lunch buffet is a steal at only about $6.50 or so.
One note: Some vegans aren't crazy about meat analogs. If you're among that camp, you might best try one of the other excellent vegan establishments in town because the Vegetarian House leans heavily on protein sources of tofu and seitan. For the rest of us .... did I mention the Orange Chik'n?
Vegetarian House is located at 22 NW 4th Ave.; 503-274-0160.
Vegan Mezza at Nicholas
Cross-posted from my entry at Neighborhood Notes ...
One of the things that makes it so easy to be vegan in Portland is that so many restaurants get it. Even if they are not fully vegan, many will clearly mark their menus as to what is vegan. Such is the case over at Nicholas Restaurant, a neighborhood institution in inner Southeast that serves up Lebanese and Middle Eastern cuisine.
If you don't know where to look, you might just drive on by its busy Grand Avenue location, but everyone in town seems to enjoy Nicholas because it always busy. Fortunately, the friendly staff make the wait short if you're eating in, or a quick call ahead will have everything waiting for you to-go.
Among the vegan items is my favorite: the vegan mezza that includes ample samples of humus, falafel, taboule, mjadra, garbanzo plate and bread -- enough to share or save for a second meal -- all for only $8.25. Among the many other options is a spicier Lebanese pizza called Shatta: red hot pepper marinated with olive oil and mixed with onions and sesame seeds (be sure to order a beverage to go with that one!).
Word to the wise: cash or check only; no credit or debit cards accepted. And be sure to visit the Web site on your birthday: if you print out the "goodies" page, you can get a free lunch! See the Web site for details.
Nicholas Restaurant is located at 318 SE Grand Ave; 503-235-5123.
One of the things that makes it so easy to be vegan in Portland is that so many restaurants get it. Even if they are not fully vegan, many will clearly mark their menus as to what is vegan. Such is the case over at Nicholas Restaurant, a neighborhood institution in inner Southeast that serves up Lebanese and Middle Eastern cuisine.
If you don't know where to look, you might just drive on by its busy Grand Avenue location, but everyone in town seems to enjoy Nicholas because it always busy. Fortunately, the friendly staff make the wait short if you're eating in, or a quick call ahead will have everything waiting for you to-go.
Among the vegan items is my favorite: the vegan mezza that includes ample samples of humus, falafel, taboule, mjadra, garbanzo plate and bread -- enough to share or save for a second meal -- all for only $8.25. Among the many other options is a spicier Lebanese pizza called Shatta: red hot pepper marinated with olive oil and mixed with onions and sesame seeds (be sure to order a beverage to go with that one!).
Word to the wise: cash or check only; no credit or debit cards accepted. And be sure to visit the Web site on your birthday: if you print out the "goodies" page, you can get a free lunch! See the Web site for details.
Nicholas Restaurant is located at 318 SE Grand Ave; 503-235-5123.
Proper Eats for a Vegan
From my recent post at Neighborhood Notes ...
This is what makes Portland such a haven for veg-heads like me: You can go to almost any neighborhood and find a veggie restaurant — and that includes St. John's, where Proper Eats has been serving up what's good for you for over two years now. Today, it was our rest break midway through a long-haul neighborhood bike ride. Located right across from the movie theater, Proper Eats not only features a pretty long, eclectic menu, but portions of the restaurant are also devoted to a market and a performance area, making it a true community gathering spot. Today we tried a light but very tasty spinach salad countered by some mellow garlic bread and a lemonade mix that was so sour (in a proper way) that we were re-charged and ready to hop back on our bikes and go another 15 miles. Proper Eats is located at 8638 N Lombard St., (503) 445-2007.
Vegan Beer at Voleur
From my recent entry at Neighborhood Notes ...
"Vegan beer?" our companions asked after hearing the waiter at Voleur describe what's on tap. "What would make one beer vegan, and another not? What's the difference?"
"Isinglass."
"But what is isinglass?"
"Fish guts."
"So there are fish guts in my beer?!"
Well, maybe. Isinglass isn't necessarily in the final product — or at least not much — but it's used to clarify some beers and wine. According Wikipedia: "Isinglass is a substance obtained from the swimbladders of fish (especially Beluga sturgeon); used mainly for the clarification of wine and beer, it is a form of collagen." (The Wikipedia entry also includes a few links for lists of vegan beers and wines.)
And that's why the good folks at Voleur are kind enough to point out not only what's organic, but also what's vegan. Because, really, why would you want to drink your beer that's already been down the gullet once? Voleur Restaurant is located at 111 SW Ash St.; 503-227-3764.
"Vegan beer?" our companions asked after hearing the waiter at Voleur describe what's on tap. "What would make one beer vegan, and another not? What's the difference?"
"Isinglass."
"But what is isinglass?"
"Fish guts."
"So there are fish guts in my beer?!"
Well, maybe. Isinglass isn't necessarily in the final product — or at least not much — but it's used to clarify some beers and wine. According Wikipedia: "Isinglass is a substance obtained from the swimbladders of fish (especially Beluga sturgeon); used mainly for the clarification of wine and beer, it is a form of collagen." (The Wikipedia entry also includes a few links for lists of vegan beers and wines.)
And that's why the good folks at Voleur are kind enough to point out not only what's organic, but also what's vegan. Because, really, why would you want to drink your beer that's already been down the gullet once? Voleur Restaurant is located at 111 SW Ash St.; 503-227-3764.
Hungry Tiger Too
I've heard about vegan selections on the menu over at Hungry Tiger Too, and so when I was out biking today in that neighborhood, I thought it would be the perfect time to pop in and see what the fuss was about.
The place was busy - that's always a good sign. The menu posted in the window looked hopeful: several things were clearly marked as being vegan or easily prepared so. Another good sign. Restaurant, bar and outdoor areas offered a variety of seating, service was OK (seat yourself; order at the bar when you're ready), and the menu prices weren't bad either ($6 for BLT, fries and pickle that were all adequate to share). Of the menu, there were perhaps 4 to 6 vegan choices (couple of sandwiches, couple of salads, couple of sides).
Sometimes when dining, I like to have lots of attention; other times I want to just go in, plunk down for a beer and sandwich, and not have my water glass topped off every five minutes. If that's you, then Hungry Tiger Too might be your kind of place, whether you're an omnivore or a vegan.
Hungry Tiger Too is located at 207 SE 12th Ave.; (503) 238-4321.
The place was busy - that's always a good sign. The menu posted in the window looked hopeful: several things were clearly marked as being vegan or easily prepared so. Another good sign. Restaurant, bar and outdoor areas offered a variety of seating, service was OK (seat yourself; order at the bar when you're ready), and the menu prices weren't bad either ($6 for BLT, fries and pickle that were all adequate to share). Of the menu, there were perhaps 4 to 6 vegan choices (couple of sandwiches, couple of salads, couple of sides).
Sometimes when dining, I like to have lots of attention; other times I want to just go in, plunk down for a beer and sandwich, and not have my water glass topped off every five minutes. If that's you, then Hungry Tiger Too might be your kind of place, whether you're an omnivore or a vegan.
Hungry Tiger Too is located at 207 SE 12th Ave.; (503) 238-4321.
Sweet Pea Baking Co.
Conveniently located in the "vegan strip mall" at 12th and Stark in SE Portland is a delicious little vegan bakery called Sweet Pea. Like its surrounding neighborhood, Sweet Pea is refreshingly unpretentious. The hollow ambience is a bit spartan, the single set of display cases deceptively slim, and the Web site hasn't been updated since shortly after the place opened last December. Still, none of that matters much once you sink your teeth into the pastries. For me, the best time to stop is on the way to work to pick up a muffin, scone or one of the large cinnamon rolls for breakfast, a box of cupcakes to share with the office, or maybe even a giant monster cookie when you just need a whole day's worth of sugar. How sweet!
Restaurant: Hartwell's
Earlier this summer, I had learned of a restaurant in Milwaukie where the owners were a couple with one being an omnivore and the other a vegan. The menu for the restuarant, which features new American cuisine, is split, with almost half of the offerings vegan fare. We checked it out last night and our drive to Milwaukie was pleasantly rewarded with comfortable ambience; friendly and attentive service; and wonderful food.
My partner and I split an appetizer of mushroom streudel that was delicious. Great earthy flavors wrapped in crispy phylo dough layers and served with a creamy sauce on the side. I sampled my partner's lasagne entree (large enough for two) and was happy to find a great-tasting tomato sauce. My own entree, a special for the night of orange glazed tempeh with veggies, was awesome -- a tempered take on the vegan orange chicken I dream of and a much more sophisticated execution than my own orange tempeh I made last week.
Our friend tried two appetizers: a miso soup that she said was surprisingly (in a good way) on the sweet side and incorporated an unusual seaweed that she thought was more typically used in desserts. She also ordered a beet salad with grilled figs, gorgonzola cheese and a few other things I didn't catch. It looked awesome and she remarked how much better this was than the typical beet salad on other restaurants' menus. Overall, she (an omni) was impressed.
Before our meal began, we were also treated to a tidbit from the chef -- a little slice of cucumber with micro greens (yum) and bread (slightly thick and doughy) with olive oil.
For dessert, we shared a carafe of french press coffee and a huge slice of chocolate layer cake. While the crumb of the cake was a tad tough to me (everyone else loved it), I did think the frosting was first rate, and the slice was plenty large for three of us to share.
Overall, the food was excellent. Although located in Milwaukie, the prices were downtown Portland, so even though I would go back without hesitation, we probably have to reserve it for a special occasion, or go for lunch instead of dinner.
My partner and I split an appetizer of mushroom streudel that was delicious. Great earthy flavors wrapped in crispy phylo dough layers and served with a creamy sauce on the side. I sampled my partner's lasagne entree (large enough for two) and was happy to find a great-tasting tomato sauce. My own entree, a special for the night of orange glazed tempeh with veggies, was awesome -- a tempered take on the vegan orange chicken I dream of and a much more sophisticated execution than my own orange tempeh I made last week.
Our friend tried two appetizers: a miso soup that she said was surprisingly (in a good way) on the sweet side and incorporated an unusual seaweed that she thought was more typically used in desserts. She also ordered a beet salad with grilled figs, gorgonzola cheese and a few other things I didn't catch. It looked awesome and she remarked how much better this was than the typical beet salad on other restaurants' menus. Overall, she (an omni) was impressed.
Before our meal began, we were also treated to a tidbit from the chef -- a little slice of cucumber with micro greens (yum) and bread (slightly thick and doughy) with olive oil.
For dessert, we shared a carafe of french press coffee and a huge slice of chocolate layer cake. While the crumb of the cake was a tad tough to me (everyone else loved it), I did think the frosting was first rate, and the slice was plenty large for three of us to share.
Overall, the food was excellent. Although located in Milwaukie, the prices were downtown Portland, so even though I would go back without hesitation, we probably have to reserve it for a special occasion, or go for lunch instead of dinner.
Sip
The weather yesterday was perfect for an afterwork bike ride to check out Sip, a recently opened cart parked in the lot of People's Food Co-Op in Southeast. The buzz about Sip's vegan milkshakes is well deserved, as friends and I all enjoyed tall, thick, creamy frozen goodness. The price -- $4.75 plus tip -- may make it a rare treat rather than a frequent indulgence, but it's still worth checking out. Next time: Orange creamsicle. (I'm linking to this photo of the Sip cart that I found on Post Punk Kitchen -- click on over and check out their online cooking shows and other great info.)
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